I'm sure that in time I could have learned to deal with it, but for me, the G2 is noticeably and significantly better in real-world use. Money-wise, I'm sad to say that while I'm ecstatic with the G2-to the point where I bought a backup body and set of lenses, because they're out of production and I never want to be without one-the G1 just didn't cut it for me. However, if you just frame the shot the way you want it and fire the shutter, you and the camera will have a mismatch of expectations, because it will focus on whatever the AF point happens to be looking at while you're expecting it to automagically do the "right" thing. If you understand how contrast detection AF works (like knowing that you can't point it at a blank white wall), fast and accurate use should be no problem whatsoever. There are a pair of brackets in the viewfinder (looks like ) that indicates the AF point, and it works a lot like an optical rangefinder focusing patch: you aim the bracketed area at the point you want to focus on, lock focus (configurable as half-shutter or rear button), and recompose. It's not a point-and-shoot, and its focusing system doesn't work like one: it doesn't automatically focus on the closest object or use any fancy subject detection algorithms. Most people I've heard or read complaining about AF accuracy with G2s (I'm not saying this applies to you, Roger, this is just a general observation) seem to not fully understand how the AF system works.
It's also got active IR that focuses very accurately in extremely low light (only works up to 12 feet or so, but it still make a huge difference).
#Contax g2 portraits full
While it does have some additional features that are nice (x-sync at 1/200 instead of 1/100, faster shutter, higher fps rate, etc., full chart here), they nailed the AF. Then I went to a camera store ad played with a G2. Since it's a mainly AF camera, it's an important issue and was a deal-breaker for me. While the lenses are truly great and relatively cheap, the AF was slow and persnickety. It was a close-but-no-cigar thing for me. I borrowed a G1 for a few weeks and thought that while it looked good on paper, it was disappointing in actual use, and I didn't see what the big deal was. RoBBo, I went through the exact same thought process you did a few years ago. I'm turned off by the Hexar by it's top shutter speed of 1/250, compared to the Contax's 1/6000th.
I'm also still tossing around the idea of a Hexar AF.īut I need a quiet, autofocus, 35mm camera that's reliable, has nice glass, and will allow me a decent amount of control. I actually haven't 100% decided on Contax yet. Looking at the images I've gotten out of it and considering it's worth, I think I've pushed this little $5 point and shoot 70s family vacation camera to the limit.
#Contax g2 portraits manual
I have absolutely no manual control over any function except for when the shutter goes and when to wind. My pressure plate scratches half of my rolls. Simply, the lens is not sharp, the autofocus is slow and very unreliable, and the "good" images off a roll are the ones that happen to be in focus anywhere.Įven in the situations where I get a chance to look through the viewfinder and can actually get the bracket over my subject, it has no AF lock, and the AF itself is not trustworthy.
Click to expand.Maybe you're not familiar with the Minolta AF2?
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